Daily Operation
Please
call the office phone line 425.868.3820 (dial option 1) the morning of
ski school to check daily operation status. If weather forces a
postponement we automatically extend until all weeks are completed (we
do not operate Presidents Holiday week).
Equipment
Equipment
is not included. Students NEED to bring equipment each week to the
mountain. Please do not expect to rent equipment weekly on the
mountain, without expecting to spend up to one hour to do so! To avoid
wasting time with daily rentals, try Take Home Season Rentals.
Lift Tickets
Lift
Tickets are not included. We will send you a discount Season Pass form
when you register with us. Buying a season pass saves you money if you
use it just 6 or 7 times. Remember to buy it from The Summit at Snoqualmie. The deadline for sending in
applications for Student Discount Passes is December 15. They
must be in the Season Pass office or in the mail and postmarked by that
date. After December 15 you will still receive the discounted price,
but you must purchase them in person at the Season Pass Office at
Summit West.
Daily ticket and regular season pass prices can be found on The Summit at Snoqualmie web site.
Starting Young Children
What is the best age to start children?
Around five years old is a good age to start children skiing; usually because the child has been
in school, is used to being away from his parents, and is comfortable
taking directions from strangers in authority. Physically the child
should be able to do about five sit-ups. For starting children in
snowboarding, eight is a good age because learning to board requires
considerable strength and balance. If the child can skateboard or
wakeboard, learning is easier.
How is desire created?
Talk
about skiing or boarding in front of your child, but not necessarily to
him. Go without him. Later, casually ask him if some day he would
like to ski/board when he is older. Go again - without him.
What should we do when our child demands to go?
Tell
him about the chores of the sport --- how he has to put on his own
clothes/gloves, carry his own equipment, and put on his own gear.
Teach him how to do these this things at home on the carpet or outside
on the grass. Show him how to get up without being helped. Tell him,
when he can do these things, you will consider taking him to the
mountains.
What should we do on the first trip?
Make
it short (less than one hour), have fun, and leave before he tires.
Plan on not skiing/boarding yourself. Donate this time to a worthy
cause - because you want to go later without having to coax, bribe, or
put up with a complaining child. Help carry some of his equipment to a
flat spot. Give him time to explore and play in the snow without
wearing his equipment, then help him put on his gear. Remember, you
are trying to instill the joy of the mountain experience. Let him
slide around on his own. Do not be too eager to help him get up when
he falls. He will usually get up by himself if you do not make a big
deal about it. If he is in an awkward position or is struggling, then
help, but gently remind him it is one of the chores he must learn. Do
not worry about turns; on a gentle hill let him slide a short distance
to a flat spot where he will stop naturally. As soon as he is having a
blast go home. Do not make the mistake of letting the activity carry
on too long so the child begins to tire; give him a taste of it and
then take it away. He may be furious, but it will leave him with an
extremely strong desire to do it again. Then go skiing/boarding again
without him.
May I teach him myself?
Teaching
him yourself often ends up in a power struggle with you angry and the
child crying. Ski school provides a structured learning environment
with clearly defined learning steps and role models (other children
succeeding). Students usually learn more by experimenting with their
environment and watching others near their age than from the "command"
teaching style used by most parents.
What should we do on lesson day?
Help
carry some of your child's gear to the meeting area. In a friendly
supportive manner, introduce your children to the instructor. Do not
tell the instructor your child is awkward or bad in front of the
child. If you have special concerns, talk with the instructor
privately, we want to develop a supportive learning environment. When
the lesson starts -- leave, otherwise your child will focus his
attention toward you. It is common for some children to cry when the
parents first leave. This usually ends after the parents are out of
range. After the lesson ask the child what he did, listen to him, and
praise his effort and progress. If he is not tired, let him show you
what was done in class, but keep skiing/boarding experiences short
until he is totally hooked.
How do I know if the lesson was a success?
Is
he making more or different types of turns? Has his speed increased?
Is he skiing/boarding different terrain? Has his desire increased? If
the answer to some of these questions is "yes" - then he is making
progress. Do not get discouraged with the results of a single lesson
for learning takes time and requires many practices and failures before
proficiency is achieved. If your child is discouraged, he may be too
tired, cold, wet, hungry, worried about progress, pushed too hard, or
frankly does not have the maturity or interest. Talk with the program
director.
How long does it take a child to learn to ski or board?
It
depends! Initially, boarding is more difficult than skiing because the
feet/legs are not free to act independently as in walking or regaining
balance. Also, learning rates vary according to age, desire, and
physical ability. It is important that parents understand this and do
not push the instructor or child. Some may be able to stop and ride
the tow by the end of the first lesson. Others are happy just playing
in the snow, falling, and straight running. Be patient, the time will
come when they choose to ski or board.
________________________________________
Selecting Boarding Equipment & Clothing
Selecting suitable equipment is critical to success.
If
your purpose is to maximize learning, go faster, or increase your
enjoyment, then you need to accurately communicate the following
information to a salesperson:
-
Your intended purpose in boarding and what you realistically expect to do by season-end.
-
Your height, weight, strength, and age
-
Your level in relationship to speed and turn radius
-
The terrain conditions you like to board.
Selecting a board shop
Pro
shops train their staff to understand product and service equipment.
Most of their sales personnel will be able to clearly explain why you
should select one product over another. Almost every manufacturer
makes a range of equipment which is appropriate for your skill level
and goals. A skilled salesperson will make several recommendations and
provide sound reasoning for their choices. Expect this kind of
treatment or find somebody else to help you.
Most boards need to be tuned
Professionals
do not use a new board until it has been tuned. A board must be
flat-filed, edges beveled and sharpened, waxed, and bindings adjusted
to your boarding stance.
Check your footedness
Do
you perform best with your right or left foot forward? If you don't
know, a salesperson will give you a little test. They may stand behind
you and gently shove you forward. The foot you step forward with is
usually the foot you will place in the forward binding. People usually
step forward with the foot that maximizes balance
Selecting boots
Boots
should be comfortable for the recreational boarder and should maximize
balance and efficiency. Listed below are some basics about boots.
-
Stiffer boots respond more quickly but are less forgiving over uneven terrain.
-
Softer boots respond more slowly but are more forgiving over uneven terrain.
-
A
more upright upper boot shaft allows a taller stance, more skeletal
support, and causes less muscle fatigue. It provides a greater range
for flexing and extending and promotes a stronger stance for resisting
forces in a turn. However, it is a weaker position for creating rotary
leg movements.
-
A
more flexed upper boot shaft promotes a stronger stance for leg
turning, but causes greater muscle fatigue from the flexed stance. It
limits flexing and extending movements and lowers the center of
gravity.
-
When
the heel of the footbed is raised it makes it easier to pressure the
heel edge. This reduces calf tension, but may increase being
off-balanced.
-
When
the heel of the footbed is lowered it makes it easier to pressure the
toe edge and more difficult to pressure the heel edge. It also causes
more calf tension at flexion.
Selecting bindings
There are many excellent well-known bindings. Step-ins are becoming
very popular but tend to be more expensive. Consult your local shop for
expert advice or do some reading. A binding that seems to work well in
town may be difficult to manage on the snow.
Safety strap or leash
This
strap is required in order to ride lifts. It attaches to the board and
wraps around the leg. It is used to control the board so it doesn't
fly off downhill. Many a boarder has walked long distances in deep
snow to recover their board because it got away.
Selecting a board
Boards fall into four general categories: (1) beginner boards which
usually are shorter, (2) sport boards for recreational boarders, (3)
versatile high performance boards for advanced/expert boarders, and (4)
competitive boards for racing, boardercross, or half-pipe. It is
difficult to discuss board design in detail without writing another
book. However, listed below are a few general guidelines about boards.
-
Shorter
boards are easier to turn, better for tricks and the halfpipe, and less
stable at higher speeds. Longer boards require more effort to turn and
are more stable at higher speeds.
-
Softer
boards turn easier but are less stable as speed increases. Stiffer
boards require more effort to turn but are more stable as speed
increases.
-
A softer tip is more forgiving. A stiffer tip is more responsive.
-
A softer tail more forgiving and a stiffer tail holds the turn better.
-
A board with more sidecut is easier to turn by just standing on it. However, it wanders more while straight running.
-
A
concave base tracks better while a convex base allows the board to turn
easier. Most boarders tune their board so the bases are flat and the
edges are at a 90 degree angle or slightly beveled.
-
Waxed boards are much easier to turn than unwaxed boards and waxed boards protects the base.
Selecting clothing
-
Layer.
It is better to use a shell parka and layers of sweaters with T-necks
and underwear than one heavy parka. This is called the "layering"
principle which is most effective in controlling body temperature.
-
Helmets
to protect the head when a rough fall occurs (not if but when)!!! It
also provides additional warmth during cold or rainy weather. A
considerable amount of body heat is lost through the top of an exposed
head on cold days. A good helmet also can be vented when you get hot.
A good helmet does not restrict your hearing.
-
Thermal
socks. Your feet get wet because of perspiration and sometimes snow
gets inside the boots. Thermal socks are somewhat water repellent and
maintain enough dead-air space when wet to act as insulation and keep
the feet warm. Cotton socks should be totally avoided. Cotton wicks
moisture into the boots.
-
Thermal
underwear has the same characteristics as thermal socks. It is warm
even when wet. Underwear constructed with polypropylenes wicks
perspiration away from the body so the moisture does not cool the body.
-
Pants are loose fitting, reinforced in the knees and seat, and extremely waterproof. Boarders sit on the snow a lot.
-
Turtlenecks
and sweaters should be lightweight. One or several may be worn
depending upon the warmth of the boarder. As it gets colder more
sweaters could be worn to create greater dead-air space which provides
further insulation against the cold.
-
Shells
(parkas) are usually unlined and are usually worn in warmer weather or
with more sweaters or vests. When fitting a parka, pay particular
attention to the cuffs. The cuffs should butt right up to or fit snugly
so the wrists are not exposed. Also look for a high collar since it
may be zipped or snapped up around the neck and chin for additional
protection and warmth.
-
Mitts
are warm since all four fingers are encased in one area and touch one
another (it's warmer in a crowd). Fingered gloves allow greater
freedom of movement so the hands may do more things without taking off
the gloves. In both cases a thermal liner adds to the warmth. Gloves
should be sprayed with a waterproofer or sealed with a water repellent
wax. Mitts should always be worn while boarding, even on sunny days.
They protect against cuts caused by the roughness of the snow during a
fall.
-
Goggles
protect the eyes from the wind and snow. Light-colored lenses are
recommended because they are usually worn during cloudy, stormy
weather. Thermal lens goggles (like thermal pane glass - two lenses)
or coated nonfog goggles are available and work the best. A "no-fog
cloth" may also be used to make ordinary goggles fog-free for a short
period of time. Those who wear glasses should select goggles
specifically designed for use with glasses.
-
Sunglasses
protect the eyes from the intense ultra violet light of the sun which
is predominate at high altitudes and reflected off the snow. Select
shatterproof sunglasses with a very dark lens. They provide additional
safety and protection for your eyes.
-
Raingear.
Plastic raingear keeps the rain out and the perspiration in. Fabric
raingear is better because it allows perspiration to escape. All
clothing should be sprayed with a waterproofing substance. Trust me!
________________________________________
Selecting Skiing Equipment & Clothing
Selecting suitable equipment is critical to success.
If
your purpose is to maximize learning, go faster, or increase your
enjoyment, then you need to accurately communicate the following
information to a salesperson: (1) your intended purpose in skiing and
what you realistically expect to do by the end of this season, (2) your
height, weight, strength, and age, (3) your level in relationship to
speed and turn radius, and (4) the terrain conditions you like to ski.
Selecting a ski shop
Pro
shops train their staff to understand product and service equipment.
Most of their sales personnel will be able to clearly explain why you
should select one product over another. Almost every manufacturer makes
a range of equipment which is appropriate for your skill level and
goals. A skilled salesperson will make several recommendations and
provide sound reasoning for their choices. Expect this kind of
treatment or find somebody else to help you.
Most skis need to be tuned
Professional skiers do not ski on new skis until they have been tuned.
Skis must be flat-filed, edges sharpened, and skis waxed. Your
foot/leg/hip alignment should be checked to see if your skis will sit
flat on the snow and edge evenly when standing in your normal skiing
stance.
Check your alignment
Very few people are aware of how their feet hit the ground when
walking. Some land on their outside heel and roll to a flat foot.
Others are pigeon-toed. The goal is to have the skis sit flat on the
snow when standing in the stance you have chosen.
Chosen is an important word because it
relates to purpose. A recreational skier may choose to ski a closer
stance because he wants to look elegant. A downhill racer may maintain
a hip-width stance for stability. In both cases the skis should be
sitting flat on the snow. However, edging increases as the stance
widens. Therefore a downhill racer may be over edged in a hip width
stance and need to be under canted by putting the cant under the little
toe side of the foot. The reverse is also true. People that bring
their feet closer together or walk "duck-footed" may have to over
canted by putting the cant under the big toe side of the foot. Again,
the objective is to have the skis lie flat on the snow when you are
standing in the width of stance you want to maintain while skiing.
Orthotics and cants are devices used for correcting alignment.
Orthotics are footbeds which are adapted to your feet so your weight is
evenly distributed over the whole foot. Cant adjustments may be made
by adjusting the boot shaft outward or inward or by placing a narrow
plastic wedge between the binding and ski.
Selecting boots
Boots
should be comfortable for the recreational skier. Boots should
maximize balancing and efficiency according to how the body works best
in relationship to a given task (racers choose different boots than
recreational skiers). Boot alteration is very common during the
fitting process. A skilled shop technician will modify boots to adapt
to the unique characteristics of your feet or suggest another boot.
Listed below are some basics about boots.
-
Stiffer
boots respond more quickly but are less forgiving over uneven terrain.
Softer boots respond more slowly but are more forgiving over uneven
terrain.
-
A
more upright upper boot shaft allows a taller stance, more skeletal
support, and causes less muscle fatigue. It provides a greater range
for flexing and extending and promotes a stronger stance for resisting
forces in a turn. However, it is a weaker position for creating rotary
leg movements. An upright shaft makes it easier to pressure the front
of the skis and more difficult to pressure the tails of the skis.
-
A
more flexed upper boot shaft promotes a stronger stance for leg turning
(steering) but causes greater muscle fatigue from the flexed stance.
It limits flexing and extending movements and lowers the center of
gravity. A more flexed shaft makes it easier to pressure the tails of
the skis, but it also makes it easier to fall off balanced backwards.
-
When
the heel of the footbed is raised it makes it easier to put pressure on
the heel of the foot and reduces calf tension. However, it promotes
hanging in boots.
-
When
the heel of the footbed is lowered it makes it easier to pressure the
front of the skis and more difficult to pressure the tail of the ski.
It also causes more calf tension at flexion.
Selecting bindings
Bindings work toward maintaining an optimum balance between holding the
boots securely to the ski for maximum control and releasing when
excessive stress is applied. There are many excellent well-known
bindings with models suited for all skiers. An appropriate binding is
selected according to weight, height, ability, age, and intended
purpose. Ski shops set the release tension according to an
international standard called a DIN setting.
To
keep bindings operating correctly: (1) Keep the binding and bottom of
your boots clean. Use binding bags when carrying your skis on the top
of a car (2) Have the bindings function tested each year by a
qualified ski shop. They will check for worn spots on the boots and
anti-friction devices.
Ski bindings generally release
side-to-side at the toe and upward at the heel. Some also release
upward and diagonally at both the toe and heel in a sideways rolling
action. Ski brakes come with most bindings. When the binding
releases, the brake snaps out and creates a drag which stops the ski
from sliding.
Ski
brakes are excellent because they are activated when skier leaves the
ski. The only drawbacks are walking back up the hill to get your ski
or spending time looking for it in deep snow. Use deep powder cords
when skiing deep snow. They are long ribbons attached to the binding.
Selecting skis
Skis fall into four general categories: (1) beginner skis are usually
slightly shorter, (2) sport skis for recreational skiers up to advanced
intermediate, (3) versatile high performance skis for advanced/expert
skiers, and (4) competitive skis for racing, moguls, or ballet.
Most
companies provide models for juniors, ladies, and men. It is difficult
to discuss ski design in detail without writing another book. However,
listed below are a few general guidelines about skis.
-
Shorter
skis are easier to turn and less stable at higher speeds. Longer skis
require more effort to turn, but are more stable at higher speeds.
-
Softer skis turn easier but are less stable as speed increases.
-
Stiffer skis require more effort to turn but are more stable as speed increases.
-
A softer tip is more forgiving. A stiffer tip more responsive.
-
A softer tail is more forgiving. A stiffer tail holds the turn better.
-
A
ski with more sidecut makes it easier to turn by using the
characteristics built into the skis. When you stand on the edge the
ski turns. However the skis tend to wander more while straight
running.
-
A
concave base tracks better while a convex base allows the skis to turn
easier. Most skiers tune their skis so the bases are flat and the
edges at a 90 degree angle or slightly beveled.
-
Waxed skis are much easier to turn than unwaxed skis. Waxed skis also protects the base.
Selecting poles
The pole is usually planted when the skier is in a flexed stance. The
pole may be planted while sinking, at the bottom of the down, while
starting to extend, at the top of the extension, or while just riding.
The correct pole length varies approximately
four inches depending upon how the pole is to be used. A longer pole
is measured by inverting the pole and grasping just under the basket.
The forearm should be parallel to the floor. A shorter pole is grasped
on the handle and the pole pointed straight down touching the floor.
Again the forearm is parallel to the floor.
The more advanced skiers tend to use shorter poles because it
requires less effort for the pole to swing through and be planted.
Listed below are some general guidelines about pole selection.
-
Shorter
poles allow a straight pole swing and less movement. Longer poles
result in a rounded pole swing with some arm swing, usually resulting
in a taller stance and are good for walking, pole tricks, and
deflection.
-
A
straight grip with a strap allows an easier pole swing. An enclosed
grip holds the hand and restricts freedom of movement, but supports the
hand during pole plants.
-
A
spring-loaded grip reduces shock to the wrist and shoulder and helps
reduce impact injuries. Poles with no straps allows quick release in a
fall or when hooking a tree.
-
A
smaller basket causes less drag when speed is the objective and swings
easily. A larger basket is good support for walking in soft snow.
-
Soft poles are easy to bend and straighten after a fall and are
generally less expensive. Stiff poles are much more difficult to bend
or break.
Selecting clothing
-
Layer.
It is better to use a shell parka and several layers of sweaters,
T-necks, and underwear than one heavy parka. This is called the
layering principle which is most effective in controlling body
temperature.
-
Helmets
protect the head when a rough fall occurs (not if but when)!!! It also
provides additional warmth during cold or rainy weather. A
considerable amount of body heat is lost through the top of an exposed
head on cold days. A good helmet also can be vented when you get hot.
A good helmet doesn't restrict your hearing. If you choose a hat, wool
hats are recommended since dampness does not affect wool's ability to
maintain warmth. No-itch wool hats are available with non-wool liner
material.
-
Thermal
socks. Your feet get wet because of perspiration and sometimes snow
gets inside the boots. Thermal socks are somewhat water repellent and
maintain enough dead-air space when wet to act as insulation and keep
the feet warm. Cotton socks should be totally avoided. Cotton wicks
moisture into the boots.
-
Thermal
underwear has the same characteristics as thermal socks. It is warm
even when wet. Underwear constructed with polypropolene wicks
perspiration away from the body so the moisture doesn't cool the body.
-
Pants should be loose fitting, reinforced in the knees and seat, and extremely waterproof.
-
Turtlenecks
and sweaters should be lightweight. One or several may be worn
depending upon the warmth of the skier. As it gets colder more
sweaters could be worn to create greater dead-air space which provides
further insulation against the cold. A cotton T-neck or sweater is not
recommended.
-
Shells
(parkas) are usually unlined and are worn in warmer weather or with
more sweaters or vests. When fitting a parka, pay particular attention
to the cuffs. The cuffs should butt right up to or fit snugly so the
wrists are not exposed. Also look for a high collar since it may be
zipped or snapped up around the neck and chin for additional protection
and warmth.
-
Mitts
are warm since all four fingers are encased in one area and touch one
another (it's warmer in a crowd). Fingered gloves allow greater
freedom of movement so the hands may do more things without taking off
the gloves. In both cases a thermal liner adds to the warmth. Gloves
should be sprayed with a waterproofer or sealed with a water-repellent
wax. Mitts should always be worn while skiing, even on sunny days.
They protect against cuts caused by the roughness of the snow during a
fall.
-
Goggles
protect the eyes from the wind and snow. Light-colored lenses are
recommended because they are usually worn during cloudy, stormy
weather. Thermal lens goggles (like thermal pane glass - two lenses)
or coated non-fog goggles are available and work the best. A no-fog
cloth may also be used to make ordinary goggles fog-free for a short
period of time. Those who wear glasses should select goggles
specifically designed for use with glasses.
-
Sunglasses
protect the eyes from the intense ultraviolet light of the sun which is
predominate at high altitudes and reflect off the snow. Select
shatterproof sunglasses with a very dark lens. They provide additional
safety and protection for your eyes.
-
Raingear. Plastic raingear keeps the rain out and the perspiration
in. Fabric raingear is better because it allows perspiration to
escape. All clothing should be sprayed with a waterproofing
substance. Trust me!